In this video I start to talk a little about the content required to build a site that you could possible sell for $30,000 like I did. If you have just joined in here, you may want to follow along by starting with the first article in this series, I Sold A Website For $30,000.
Below is the example article I mentioned in the video. Click Here To Watch The Video if you can’t see it in the email feed (which, of course, you can’t LOL) Watch the video here, forget the written fluff below. 
Ok, so there is a lot going on with this article and I will try to explain some of my thinking; but I also want you guys to tell me what you notice down in the comments as well. And, in case anyone is wondering, this article is a 100% original that I wrote just for this post and it will never be used elsewhere. (wouldn’t it be funny if I started getting longtail traffic for terms mentioned below?) Could happen… never know.
Anyway, it took me 11 minutes to write the article you see here. Keep in mind that in my opinion, you will need a minimum of 30 BIG POSTS (700+ words each) for the type of mega-giant site that will make money or eventually sell for good coin. We are targeting longtail keyword traffic here. You must understand that humans talk to the Google search box like it’s got a human inside of it. That is how you target longtails on a DIY site… thinking in the same vein as the humans who talk to Google like it is also a human. Get it?
Also, I made some of the words in the post blue, and those are to represent hyperlinks to other articles that I’d use to increase my internal linking structure. Since this is just an example, there are no real links there.
Here’s the article I wrote… maybe some of you might even learn something…imagine that eh? FLUFF is GOOD!
Is Premixed Thinset or Mastic Adhesive Good For Installing Tile?
You guys know that I love DIY home improvement projects, and nothing excites me more than installing a tile backsplash, ceramic tile floor, slate tile tub surround or outdoor tiled patio. But I must confess, the stuff that holds the tile down is much more important that the actual tile itself. You gotta learn to “stick it good!” Huh?
Tile Adhesive or Tile Thinset Basic Information
For time’s sake, there are basically two ways to make a tile stick to a surface. You can use thinset mortar (a cement based product) or a Mastic (an organic based product) to adhere the tile to the surface or substraight. If you go to Home Depot or Lowe’s right now, you will find all kinds of mastic and thinset all over the shelves. Some comes in bags, others in buckets. But MASTIC and THINSET are NOT created equal! On top of that, you also should be careful of the real “fooler” in the bunch, and that is the “premixed thinset“… you definitely don’t wanna get “stuck” (pun!) with the premixed!… read on and learn ya’ll…
Drawbacks To Using Mastic Tile Adhesive
You’ve seen it… big white bucket of “ceramic tile adhesive white” for $40, simple, easy-breezy right?…
I want you to logic with me for a minute: if something (like mastic) comes pre-mixed in a bucket, and during all the months it is sitting on the shelves of aisle ‘42′ at Home Depot in that water tight bucket in a huge gloppy mass… it manages NOT to harden and dry… what makes you think it will dry in your shower walls when sandwiched between your water-proofing substraight (like Kerdi) and your hardened ceramic or porceline tiles?
Did you get that? Go back and read it again ok?… we’ll wait…
Ok, I will try to explain it another way: Mastic won’t dry properly in a situation where it is sandwiched between two water proof or nearly waterproof membranes. What’s more, if the mastic does dry after several weeks, and you get it wet again (like in shower) it will go right back to being gooey.. and this is not a good situation for a tiled wall in a shower!
I never recommend using mastic anywhere on any application that can or may get wet, period. If you do find a tile application that will not come in contact with water (such as a tile accent wall in a dry bar area) then you can use mastic and stick the tiles directly to the drywall behind. Other than that, stay clear of mastic. This is your mastic warning!
Is Premixed Thinset Any Good?
This one has fooled many DIY home improvement champs… don’t you be one!
Once again, to save time: don’t buy it! Most “pre-mixed thinset” products are really just mastic with sand added in and a grey colorant to mimic true thinset. In any case, most premixed thinset products that are marketed to do-it-youselfers like you are going to have the same problems I mentioned above. Remember, if it won’t dry inside a sealed bucket, it won’t dry between two sealed surfaces on your walls or floors.What Is The Best Thin Set To Buy Then?
I don’t have the time or space to go into all the ins and outs of thinset mortar in this article, but I will say that true thinset; the good stuff that is made to adhere tile to properly prepared walls and floors comes dry in bags and you must mix it yourself. (which means you must purchase a quality half-inch drill also)
This type of thinset is portland cement based and will dry within 24hrs when applied properly. This is because it dries due to a chemical reaction within the slurry, and not based on “getting outside air.” When you add water to dry thinset mortar, the chemical reaction begins! Oh, the magic of DIY!!!
You can modify thinset with polymers and such to give it better flex for certain applications, but as I mentioned, we will get to that in another article.Final Notes On Thin Set Mortar, Pre Mixed and Mastic
Guys, just don’t use anything that comes premixed in a pail for tiling applications. Remember, it is your house that you are working on here, and one of the things I always preach is that you, as a DIYer, can do quality work just like the pros, while saving money and getting a huge sense of accomplishment (plus some love from that adoring wife!).
So before you start that next tile shower project or tiled backsplash project, make sure you get the right thinset for the job.. and mix it your-own-dang-self!
Ok, so here are a few clues as to how I think when I write:
1) I think like a human, not a keyword analysis tool
2) I spell the words like humans would in different places ie: pre-mixed/premixed/pre mixed — thinset/thin set
3) I write like a human writes an email… loose and free on the punctuation. I also write “folksy”
4) I bold keywords all around. This does benefit humans, and Google too
5) I am a smart sucka.. so I can write for humans and search engines… you can too!
6) I come off as an authority because I freaking am an authority, but also a hobbyist like my readers
7) I link out to relavent articles on my site
I would include at least one picture. I prefer to take my own pics.
9) what else do you guys see? Can you see the longtails I am targeting with this puppy?
Now I am going to use this article over many of the coming posts. I will show you how I monetize it, of course, but I will also be talking about product review posts and “quick blurbs” in the near future and how they interweave with the BIG POSTS.
I mentioned in the video that I have not yet talked about buying a domain, and that is because I want you to decide if you can even make the commitment to this type site first. If you are not willing to build this kind of site, then don’t waste your money on a domain. There is a TON more info coming on this subject, prolly enough to make Darren Rowse blush and John Chow eat Panda Express … so stay tuned.
